![4peaks power outlet 4peaks power outlet](https://www.caravanrvcamping.com.au/assets/full/500-03010.png)
This function neither requires nor makes use of the start voltage.Ĥ Peaks Technology has one issued and three pending patents that describe the behavior of the BatteryMole.
#4peaks power outlet software
This measurement is used by the software to determine the health of the battery and if there is probable cause to raise an alarm.
![4peaks power outlet 4peaks power outlet](https://www.110220volts.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2015/11/Regvolt-EU_OUTLET.jpg)
For those cars that switch off power to the 12V receptacle, this calculation is based upon multiple voltage samples taken during the first 50 milliseconds as the ignition switch transitions from the OFF position to the START position.Ĥ) The time it takes the engine to start is sampled whenever the engine is started after it has been off for more than four hours. An alarm is generated when the battery is either being over or undercharged.Ģ) A Low Voltage alarm, qualified by time, is generated whenever the battery's voltage drops below a predetermined threshold.ģ) The charge state of the battery is calculated once the engine has been off for more than four hours. Irrespective of the start voltage, the following additional functions are performed in all cars:ġ) The output of the alternator is monitored when it is predetermined that the temperature under the hood will approximate the temperature read from the BatteryMole's built-in temperature sensor. It really is far more than an voltmeter even in those cars where the start voltage cannot be captured. patent office has granted our company two patents that relate directly to the inner workings of our product. Our company spent over two years developing this product. It is not necessary to visually monitor the voltage as displayed on the LCD screen. When your battery is being over or under charged an alarm will be generated.Īnd if your charging system should quit working entirely, a low voltage alarm will trigger. Your charging system also is monitored as you drive. When you get one of these alarms (and you likely will) it'll be time to put your battery on a charger and then load test it. Typically you'll get an updated reading when you start your car in the morning. Here again the engine must be off for 4 hours. In addition to the start times the BatterMole in your car calculates your battery's State of Charge. Perhaps the missing start times you mention is the result of the 4 hour wait-time. The trick is neither of these samples are meaningful unless the engine is off for 4 hours. The start times, however, do get calculated. The BatteryMole, as our Amazon product page describes, will not capture start voltages in those cars that turn off power to the 12v plug when the engine is cranking. Here are some comments from Lonnie Goff, a part of the company that developed the BatteryMole, as he responded to some questions and issues in Amazon reviews: I believe the BatteryMole is a bit more sophisticated than a simple voltage monitor.
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I now have a hot left socket! $30 well spent, imo. They clipped the hot wire to the left socket, then attached a wire and ran it over to the fuse panel by the driver's left foot. The audio shop had me fixed up in less than 30 minutes. These charts are similar to the calibration of the "battery monitors" I've seen referenced in the forum. OR - simply cut the OEM wiring, shrink over the wounded wire and adapt my new wires to the donor connector(s). I've also run to the bone yard and scavenged this kind of thing when needed. In my experience, I've done that exact thing when confronted with OEM connector type (etc), my solution was to use a big ol' 300W solder gun for direct connection to the housing body for - and center +. Like you, I do not favor modifying OEM anything, so for powering the left side socket, it seems easy enough to disconnect the factory supply and adapt a dedicated connection to the "not a cig lighter" port, no? I've not had occasion to disassemble this part of the RL console yet, so I could be totally ignorant of why that can't be done. If accuracy counts, going directly to the nearest available main supply like the battery itself or one of the inputs to fuse panels is best. the *best* way to know whats happening at the battery with a device like those you linked to is to bypass as many vehicle circuits as possible - and all the resulting voltage drops associated with insertion loss and cable lengths. Click to expand.Speed, Pardon me if I'm stating the obvious here, but.įWIW: the battery monitoring options you're considering are voltage based only (duh), meaning they are calibrated to known V levels and don't consider other contributing factors to battery condition such as ambient and operating temps.